By Chlotrudis Independent Film Society
Director: Frederick Wiseman
Year: 2023
Running time: 240
IMDB: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt28494786/reference/
Diane says: “I went to considerable lengths today to see Frederick Wiseman’s new doc, as I figured opportunities to see it (ever!) would be scarce. The institution Wiseman studies in this film is a 3-star Michelin restaurant.
“It won’t be one of my favorites of the filmmaker. There was a story struggling to emerge about père Michel Troisgros’ reluctance to cede leadership to his sons, but the reality doesn’t offer enough drama or emotion to make it matter. Another angle is that Michel has gotten more interested in sourcing his food locally and sustainably, so we see the surrounding countryside and learn about the practices of cheesemakers, wineries, and dairy farmers–but not much that any foodie hasn’t been exposed to before.
“Ultimately I found it mostly a bore, kind of like Michel–I sensed that the diners he regaled were eager to get to their meals.
“My favorite parts were about cheese–you really have to be a connoisseur to make choices from a cheese cart displaying about 40 varieties. And the audience shared lots of laughs as Michel gave an ever-circling critique of his son César’s kidney and sriracha dish.
“Things I learned: even in the finest restaurants, the chef will use a tasting spoon twice and lick his fingers; people will reserve a €20,000 bottle of wine a year in advance.